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  The Potential Effects of Heavy Duty Detergents on Wool
  Lambswool and wool are natural fibres. They are highly durable and environmentally friendly. Both Lambswool and wool cardigans or sweaters may be adversely affected by particular components in heavy-duty detergents, if incorrectly treated in laundering. This is not to say that Lambswool and wool is in any way weak or inferior, merely that, as a natural material like skin or hair, it can be harmed by aggressive agencies.

There are two particular types of ingredient which may deteriorate a Lambswool cardigan or wool sweater washed incorrectly:
 
  Biological Detergents
  In addition to the normal surfactants (a substance which reduces surface tension), builders, emulsifiers, perfumes etc. are contained in ordinary detergents, but so-called ‘bio' detergents also include a precisely metered quantity of enzymes . These are protein digesting biological catalysts, and are effective at decomposing stains or soiling in which proteinaceous material is the main constituent. Egg, blood, gravy etc are all protein-based and, will be effectively removed by enzyme-containing detergents.

Like fur and hair, the histological structure of the fibre in lambswool cardigans and wool sweaters is based on the polypeptide and disulphide linked protein, Keratin. This can itself be affected by the biological components in certain detergents. Enzymes may attack the cell membrane complex (intercellular cement) of the wool fibres, and lead to disintegration of the structure into its component cortical cells.

Repeated intensive washing, or prolonged soaking of Lambswool and wool garments in solutions of biological detergent, can lead to impoverishment, weakness, hole formation, and general deterioration. A warning to this effect is included on the packaging of biological detergents.

The presence of damage due to biological detergents in Lambswool cardigans and wool sweaters is readily detected by microscopical analysis. Such damage constitutes misuse of the wool garments.
 
  Bleaches and Bleach Activators
  In order to increase their apparent cleansing efficiency, some detergents include bleaches or ‘bleach activators'. These are usually of an oxidative nature, though can also be reductive. Again, because of Lambswool and wool’s inherently natural characteristics, the fibre can be damaged by strong solutions of bleach-containing detergents.

Typically, these will cause fading of colour to cardigans and sweaters, erosion of the fibre cuticle, and a corresponding deterioration in abrasion resistance, resilience and strength. Detergents intended for use with natural fibres (Lambswool, wool, cashmere, etc.) don’t include strong bleaching agents and are preferable.

The effects of oxidative bleaches can be quantified according to BS:3568:1988(1996) Alkali Solubility of Wool, while those of reductive bleaches are measured using the corresponding BS:3584:1988 Urea Bisulphite Solubility of Wool.


Adherence to the guidance and instructions contained in the Care Label of Lambswool cardigans and wool sweaters is essential.

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